The Black Forest has a lot more to offer than gateaux and cuckoo clocks. Fans of Germany’s hearty, meaty cuisine will find plenty to gorge on in Freiburg, the region’s quirky capital. Here are five of my favourite foodie finds from around the city.
Herrenstraße 47, 79098 Freiburg || www
For old school German grub served with a smile, Gasthaus Lowen is well worth a visit. The schweinshaxe (fried pig knuckle) is as big as a child’s head, and you can opt to have it with either fries or spaetzle (Germany’s equivalent of pasta). I went for the spaetzle, drenched in gravy, which made for a surprisingly perfect combo. While waiting for your food, enjoy taking in the numerous photos of local luminaries plastered all over the walls (it’s better than it sounds).
Unterlinden 3, 79098 Freiburg || www
Slightly out from the main city centre (but still only a five minute stroll away), sits this modern-ish diner. The kitchen dabbles in German, Italian, Asian and American food, and the menu situation is a touch confusing, but on two separate visits here the food was consistently great. On Visit One I had a filo pastry parcel stuffed with herby beef ragu, paired with a tangy potato salad. On Visit Two I went for the kaesespaetzle (cheesy spaetzle), a treat for all lovers of macaroni cheese (which is basically every last one of us, right?).
Curry & Fritz
Universitätsstrasse 11, D-79098 Freiburg || www
If you’re a meat-eater, you can’t come to Germany without having some currywurst: IT’S THE LAW. Loads of places here do it, but Curry & Fritz’s reputation ensured it was the one we were most excited to try. Don’t expect a nice sit-down meal here: this place is basically just a little takeaway with a few stools (which are rarely vacant). But for a lunchtime snack it’s unlikely you’ll find better than this. The wurst comes chopped up and crispy, with sweet curry sauce slathered all over it and fries on the side. Germany: this is what I always want from you, and you never let me down, you beautiful madam you.
Grünwälderstraße 17, 79098 Freiburg || www
If you’re a meat-eater, you can’t come to Germany without having some schnitzel: IT’S THE LAW (like what I did there?). This place seems to be a bit of a Freiburg institution, with a cheap and cheerful menu specialising in more varieties of schnitzel dish than you’d ever have thought possible (or necessary). Think of a sauce. Go on, think of one. Chilli? Got it. Cheese? Got that one too. Cranberry? Yep. Mushroom? Pepper? Hollandaise? Yep. Yep. Yep. Now imagine that sauce served with some gigantic slabs of schnitzel, alongside your choice of side, and you’ve got the idea.
Bertoldstraße 12, 79098 Freiburg || www
Avoid at all costs the crammed, over-priced and downright unfriendly dessert cafes tactically positioned in Freiburg’s busiest squares. Instead, go where the locals go. Hof Eis does simple, tasty ice cream in multiple flavours, for the price of some pocket change. In a city where the summer heat often soars past the 30C mark, this place a must-visit. It’s basically a hole in the wall, so there are no tables (let alone table service), but you can take your cup or cone a few metres along the road to the Platz der Alten Synagoge (Old Synagogue Square) where there are plenty of places to sit, watch the world go by and savour your little scoops of joy.
(Sneaky tip: Hof Eis closes at 9pm most nights (and 8pm on Saturdays). If you’re after some good ice cream later than that, try walking a little further along the same road to the similarly delicious Eiscafe Portofino.)
Freiburg trip: 19-25 July 2019
Read our full seven-day guide to Freiburg here.